So if you’re a long standing blog reader you may have seen some of my previous posts as part of what was previously called “skin school”. But I thought I should branch out into beauty school as I want to continue talking about the science of beauty but I want to include makeup, hair and body care too. I have recently seen a lot of controversial comments about silicones. I want to be able to highlight the uses and perhaps some of the pitfalls of silicones in haircare, makeup and skincare.
What are Silicones?
First I think it is important to highlight what a silicone is. A silicone is a synthetic (man made) polymer which has hydrophobic properties. This means they help retain moisture by creating a seal which is impenetrable to water. Silicones are unique in their design for a specific task, meaning not all silicones are the same. Although they do have numerous similar qualitites.
Silicones have both moisturising and lubricating properties hence their use in so many beauty products. In skincare and makeup they help create a smooth and soft appearance and surface whilst providing added slip for application. They are also the ingredients in your foundations and lipsticks which stop them drying out. In haircare they help seal the cuticle of the hair taming frizz, locking in moisture and adding shine.
Why do Silicones Get a Bad Rep?
So I hear you saying these all sound like good properties, why do they get such a bad rep? There is a lot of fake news out there. Multiple people claim they are toxic, suffocate the skin and have the ability to enter the body system.
When is comes to haircare silicones get a bad reputation as they can be known for weighing the hair down. They are also thought to strip and damage the hair and prevent moisture from entering the shaft.
Haircare
If you have thin or naturally straight hair you may in fact find that they do weigh the hair down. Of course if we were to smother our strands in just silicone it would be weighed down but haircare is more sophisticated than that and is capable of having the desired effect.
When it comes to the concerns mentioned above. Silicones technically do stop moisture from entering the shaft. However that is the design, if you have thick frizzy or curly hair you may want to introduce silicones to help tame the frizz as it is smoothing and prevents hair from absorbing humidity. Silicone acts as a synthetic oil for the hair. Thicker and curly hair struggles for the natural oils to travel further down the shaft of the hair and silicones help do the job of the natural oils.
Makeup and Skincare
Firstly, just to cover the claims made in the fake news. Silicones are specifically designed so that they are not toxic to humans and there molecules are too large to be able to penetrate the skin therefore, eliminating any risk of getting into our system. With regards to suffocating the skin again they are formulated so that they are porous and resistant to air.
Silicones for years have been used for treating scarring and wounds as it is known for helping the appearance. Silicones are well known for offsetting dryness and help reduce flaking. This is why silicones are often included in skincare such as retinols and anti-acne treatments. Silicones are regularly used in makeup too as it is known for creating a smooth appearance and acting as a breathable barrier against the elements, plus it is almost imperceptible on the skin. So why not reap the benefits.
Specific Silicones to Look Out For
It is worth noting however silicones do wash off. Some are more stubborn than others such as amodimethicone and dimethicone and take 2 to 3 washes to be fully removed but some are water soluble and washed away in a single wash such as cyclomethicone. However, recently there has been studies showing cyclomethicone may not have a great environmental impact and that it is worth avoiding.
In addition to the above, other types of silicone include phenyl trimethicone, dimethicone copolyol and cyclomethicone. Phenyl trimethicone is highly water resistant and is used to hold water in skin and hair and add flexibility.
